Currently, for example,  we have two pet gelded male llamas called Scooby and Dooby and they are perhaps archetype models for both Wolfgang and Constanza's general character. The recent adventure where Wolfgang pops his head through the window and starts to eat Jill Archer's apples is based on a similar incident with a female llama called Chimu. On the whole, however, if we had to choose one llama that represents the inspiration for these two now infamous Archers' characters it would be our much loved and much missed Lucy Llama - a beautiful llama who would enchant all who met her by giving them fuzzy kisses!

I am delighted that you are converted. Whilst of course our llamas are not - scientifically speaking - a different species, in reality they are certainly very different to zoo llamas both in appearance and, most importantly,  in character. Llamas for the most part  do not enjoy  zoo life (and who can blame them?) and much zoo stock comes from lines that simply should not have been bred from in the first place! We have spent a decade and a half importing the type of stock we want and selectively breeding to achieve the results you see on these web pages, so it is heart-warming to  have the results so appreciated!

Llamas kush, or sit down, for much of the time that they are not grazing. Generally of course they do this at will, in their own good time! But from the point of view of training them to kush when you signal, it is relevant to note that llamas do kush naturally on command... i.e when a stud llama jumps on the back of an "empty" (non-pregnant) female llama, she will sit down; equally when dominant males jump on submissive males, playful youngsters jump on each other, and occasionally adult females on adult females... Indeed experienced females will often sit down as soon as the male approaches... 

The lesson here is not that you should try jumping on to the back of the llama that you wish to kush - in fact "please don't try that at home..." What you can do however, is adapt this knowledge...  

This method is best tried out on young adults (over 18 months) - males, geldings, or females who are not yet mated. It is best not to practice on stud males who will "naturally" resist any lessons, until you are experienced at it, and not at all on pregnant females .

Firstly enlist the help of someone tall and strong!

Then, having attached a sufficiently long but not too long, strong lead rope to a well fitting halter, lead a young or gelded llama that is already well lead-trained, calm and biddable, to a strong post-and-rail fence or equivalent, with a low bottom rail. 

Pass the lead under the bottom rail to your helper who is on the other side of the fence. The helper then pulls up on the lead rope so that the lead is effectively in a V formation (the top of one side of the V is under the llama's head in the halter ring, the bottom of the V is under the fence rail and the top of the other side of the V is being pulled high by the helper). As the lead rope is pulled upward, the llama's front is being brought downward with his front legs coming to a kneeling position.  Whilst this is happening, firmly press both hands down along the llama's back toward the tail, exerting as much pressure as is reasonably needed.

Although this may sound very physical, do not allow the lesson to become a fight or stressful for the llama or you. Whilst some physical pressure is required for the upward pull on the lead and the downward pressure on the llama's rear end, it should be used more to firmly encourage and guide than to physically overcome.

 It is quite possible that it will not work the first time - do not try for too long, but repeat at intervals (the length depending on the reaction of the llama). As with many new lessons, they sometimes object the first time or two and then suddenly co-operate obligingly the next time.

If it becomes very physical then perhaps the llama is not ready for this sort of "advanced" lesson.

As the llama begins to respond, issue the command "Kush" loudly and firmly. Depending on the llama, you should find that after a few lessons, the llama will respond to the verbal command whilst giving just a simple tug downwards on the lead.

... Do adjust your timing and persistence in relation to your llama's acceptance of the exercise. And don't forget a small treat as a reward for effort!

Paul.. I am totally amazed!  Less than 24 hours after we began your instructions to the letter, I have a llama that I can, single-handedly, with a minimum of downward pressure at both ends, and standing not now by a fence but in the middle of a field, require to fold right down. I thought it would take weeks, if at all. Yes I was heavy with the single, repeated, verbal command ...and the verbal and material rewards on each of the twenty or so drops. I think I am on the way to getting it by voice alone. THANK YOU! T.C

Generally if we shear at all we do it in early Spring, but have sheared right up until September on the odd occasion. If shearing just a few llamas it can be done quite quickly with hand clippers- rather than electric - and this makes it easier to leave on a thicker blanket. You could shear your nine month old cria, (and younger down to just a few months for super fine fibre)  but remember that the coat protects from heat as well as from cold and close shearing, especially on white llamas, can lead to sunburn in intense sun. Llamas can take pretty hot weather and are affected more by high humidity - albeit something we do not get too much of in the U.K...

(see also "The mating game" -  TL5)

The older the male llama, the longer it will take for him to lose his stud "characteristics" and if used as a stud for several years might always adopt the attitude of an entire male. However the timescale you mention should not pose any problems. Remember too, that entire male llamas are not like stallion horses or bulls and (assuming they were of good temperament in the first place) owners often  choose not to geld them at all - even if not being bred from.